39Vaugirard

I remember when my husband first took me on a canal ride on Canal St. Martin. A canal that is only open to boat rides during the summer. A canal that cuts through the 4th and 10th arrondisements, that is the heart of the bohemian Paris. Of course, as I read this article in NY Times, I was reminded once again, the democratic pleasures of Paris… that the Proustian aspects of Paris need not be costly….

IF YOU GO HOW TO GET AROUND

The Vélib’ bicycle-rental system has become exceedingly popular. Rental stations are located all around the city, and a one-hour rental costs only 1 euro.

The Métro is the best alternative (besides walking). Tickets are 1.60 euros each, but can be bought in packets of 10 (un carnet) for 11.40 euros, about $16 at $1.41 to the euro. If you’re going to be in Paris from Monday through Sunday, or plan to ride the Métro frequently, invest in a swipable Navigo card. The card itself costs 5 euros, and a weeklong unlimited credit is 16.80 euros. Hold on to the card when the week is up — you can use it on your next visit.

WHERE TO STAY

Hipotel Paris Belleville, 21, rue Vicq d’Azir, (33-1) 4208-0670; singles from 32 euros.

Hôtel des Arts Bastille, 2, rue Godefroy Cavaignac; (33-1) 4379-7257, www.paris-hotel-desarts.com; doubles from 59 euros.

Les Chansonniers, 113, boulevard de Ménilmontant; (33-1) 4357-0058, doubles with shared bathroom from 46 euros, with ensuite bathroom from 59 euros.

WHAT TO SEE

Musée Carnavalet , 23, rue de Sévigné;(33-1) 4459-5858; www.carnavalet.paris.fr, free admission.

Musée Cognacq-Jay, 8, rue Elzévir; (33-1) 4027-0721; www.cognacq-jay.paris.fr., free admission.

Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature, 62, rue des Archives; (33-1) 5301-9240, www.chassenature.org; admission 6 euros, free the first Sunday of every month.

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK

Pink Flamingo, 67, rue Bichat; (33-1) 4202-3170; www.pinkflamingopizza.com

Le Verre Volé, 67, rue de Lancry; (33-1) 4803-1734; www.leverrevole.fr.

Bistrot Victoires, 6, rue de la Vrillière; (33-1) 4261-4378.

Chez Georges, 11, rue des Canettes; (33-1) 4326-7915.

Le Baron Rouge, 1, rue Théophile-Roussel, (33-1) 4343-1432.

Churrasqueira Galo, 69, rue de Dunkerque, (33-1) 4874-4940

Le Garde Robe, 41, rue de l’Arbre Sec, (33-1) 4926-9060.

Le Cul de Poule, 53, rue des Martyrs, (33-1) 5316-1307, is super-playful from its name (literally, chicken butt; figuratively, double-boiler) to its décor (orange chairs, bed-like banquette). But the cooking is serious, precise, creative and affordable, with two courses 23 euros, and three for 26.

Le Bar à Soupes, 33, rue de Charonne; (33-1) 4357-5379; www.lebarasoupes.com, offers an excellent lunch deal: a fresh market soup, two types of cheese, bread and a glass of wine for 9.90 euros.

WHERE TO SHOP

À Chacun Son Image, 35-37, rue Charlot, (33-665) 2395-0300; achacunsonimage.wordpress.com.

Native Kingdom, 24, rue de Poitou

A.P.C. Surplus, 20, rue Andre del Sarte; (33-1) 4262-1088; www.apc.fr.

I’ve never really been a fan of Rodin – too sappy and too derivative of Dobie Gillis, but do have to say that this is a great way to make use of Museum Night and give visitors a way to see art in a new light (excuse the pun). Other museums will likely just be open, but the seeing things differently should be what this evening is about.

Art lovers who visit the Rodin museum in Paris for this year’s Museum Nights festival will be given a flashlight to admire the sculptor’s masterpieces in pitch darkness.
Hundreds of museums in France and in 40 more European countries will hold the annual dusk-to-midnight event on Saturday to encourage patrons to appreciate art in a different light.

[From AFP: Rodin by flashlight? France gears for night at museum]

But it goes on the list for our next trip to Paris since we’re all over the the smaller “second tier” museums which are hidden all over the city.

Boarded up for renovations for five long years, the Museum of the Legion of Honor in Paris has opened again. It faces the Musee D’Orsay on the Left Bank and occupies a wing of one of the city’s finest palaces, the Hotel de Salm, completed in 1788 and much admired by Thomas Jefferson.

The museum first opened in 1925 to showcase French national decorations such as the royal orders of St. Michel, founded in 1469, and especially the Legion of Honor, created by Napoleon in 1802.

Visiting the renovated museum gives visitors a chance to peek into the exquisite, neoclassical Hotel de Salm. Its galleries explain why orders of merit came into being and identify recipients such as Thomas Wiltberger Evans, dentist of Napoleon III, and Maurice Floquet, France’s oldest surviving veteran of World War I (who died in 2006).

[From Paris Museum of the Legion of Honor reopens - Travel - LATimes.com ]

PARIS (Reuters) – France returned to its rightful owners on Thursday a painting by French master Henri Matisse which was seized by the Nazis in 1941 after its Jewish owner fled anti-Semitic persecutions in Germany. The 1898 painting, “The Pink Wall,” was one of thousands of paintings stolen from Jewish families during the Second World War that ended up in the custody of French authorities.[From France returns Matisse painting stolen by Nazis | Lifestyle | ReutersLong-time visitors to the Pompidou will probably recognize this painting, "The Pink Wall" by Henri Matisse. It has been held for sixty years by French museum authorities during a long search for it's rightful owners.

In a story right out of the 2007 film, "The Rape of Europa," the heirs and the painting were only paired after a German art historian made the connection using an internet database set up for this purpose.

Anyone interested in the great art of Europe must see "The Rape of Europa" The film tells the story of the Nazi theft of thousands and thousands of artworks from private and museum collection before and during World War II, and details a lot of the destruction of priceless treasures due to the war. Many artworks were saved, however due to heroic actions by many, as well military officials who were put in charge of saving vast treasures even as the war raged on.

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When the Pyramid was new, it took literally hours in line to get into the Louvre through the main entrance. The locals knew that many entrances exist and, while not as I.M. Pei-extraordinary, almost never have a line. The Louvre has a good map with the four other entrances. This blog recommends the Porte des Lions, but we like the Passage Richelieu. Use whichever is convenient and gets you out of the rain faster.

Line ups can be long at the Louvre
but there are multiple entrances.
The entrance in the glass pyramid
is usually one of the busiest.
We prefer the Porte des Lions.
The last time we went,
there wasn’t a line up at all.

[From Daily Photos & Frugal Travel Tips » Blog Archive » Entrances To The Louvre, Paris, France]