39Vaugirard

This dressing your age thing is tricky, for myself and for my daughter.

My daughter, who is nine, has grown too old for the ‘kids’ clothes at Du Pareil au Meme, Jacadi, or BonPoint, but still too young to wear truly teen age fashion. One thing is for sure, her feet has grown so much that she must wear Women’s size shoes, and she will soon surpass even my shoe size, much to her chagrin. We have found few solutions. Zara Kids have great selection of clothes for kids, 5-14 age. There is one in the Marché St. Germain. Great sweaters, tops, dresses, tout au courant. There is even a ‘fur’ gilet that looked great on her, but she demurely declined. There is a great collection for boys as well, though it’s a little too rock and roll for our 5 year old son. Another find is Zef on rue des Saint Péres, 6éme. Their style is very French, vs Zara which seems more Barcelona/Spanish, reflecting their provenance. And bien sur, there is always GapKids for my daughter’s collection of jeans, flare, boot cut, skinny legs, et cetra.

Then, there is me, une autre femme d’un certain age. My girlfriends and I bemoan finding clothes and wearable pieces that are still youthful in style but accommodates our changing bodies and need for well made fabrication. Every time I do come to Paris, I do visit these few boutiques in the neighborhood, where I manage to find one great new piece that I love and that adds to my wardrobe. I long learned that it’s better to get that one unusual deep blue velvet tuxedo jacket to wear over my jeans then more basic stuff. I highly recommend Samantha, on Rue de Rennes. It’s a small boutique but highly curated. Another one is Suite 114 rue du Bac, where you feel like you’re entering someone’s private loft, filled with artsy photo, beautiful interior and a stunning collection of local Parisian designers.

Another one that I would recommend is Tara Jarmon. A Canadian-French designer who now has stores in most cities. Nice pants and jackets for work and interesting dresses for night out. She has stores in 6éme and on the Champs Élysées.

This three-floor, 16,000-square-foot general store near the Marais offers shopping with a conscience; all of the profits are donated to children’s charities in Madagascar. The couple behind Bonpoint children’s clothing fame have put together an irresistible array of cutting-edge design, in-house collections, vintage furniture and kitchen and tableware finds, plus fashion, lowers, a perfume bar, and a used book café. 111 Boulevard Beaumarchais.

Here’s another good round-up of food feasts in Paris, many in our neighborhood, and old favorites like Pierre Hermé and La Durée (though we’ve soured on the last given prices and crowds). Jasmine continues to love Ze Kitchen Gallerie, where I find it pretentious and often tepid.

Stop by Pierre Hermé on rue Cambon on the right bank or rue Vaugirard or Bonaparte locations on the left bank for mouth watering macarons – these are the best in Paris, seconded, perhaps by Ladurée (skip the macarons at Paul). Another worthwhile stop for an afternoon pause gourmande is the Grande Epicerie du Bon Marché, where you can sample many top shelf products, from cheeses, to meats, to a shellfish bar, more types of water than you have ever seen, and speciality products from Fauchon and Hediard.

[From Gourmet Paris, the Remix « ArtsÉtoile]

Just the picture make my mouth water…where is the phone number for Air France….?

I remember when my husband first took me on a canal ride on Canal St. Martin. A canal that is only open to boat rides during the summer. A canal that cuts through the 4th and 10th arrondisements, that is the heart of the bohemian Paris. Of course, as I read this article in NY Times, I was reminded once again, the democratic pleasures of Paris… that the Proustian aspects of Paris need not be costly….

IF YOU GO HOW TO GET AROUND

The Vélib’ bicycle-rental system has become exceedingly popular. Rental stations are located all around the city, and a one-hour rental costs only 1 euro.

The Métro is the best alternative (besides walking). Tickets are 1.60 euros each, but can be bought in packets of 10 (un carnet) for 11.40 euros, about $16 at $1.41 to the euro. If you’re going to be in Paris from Monday through Sunday, or plan to ride the Métro frequently, invest in a swipable Navigo card. The card itself costs 5 euros, and a weeklong unlimited credit is 16.80 euros. Hold on to the card when the week is up — you can use it on your next visit.

WHERE TO STAY

Hipotel Paris Belleville, 21, rue Vicq d’Azir, (33-1) 4208-0670; singles from 32 euros.

Hôtel des Arts Bastille, 2, rue Godefroy Cavaignac; (33-1) 4379-7257, www.paris-hotel-desarts.com; doubles from 59 euros.

Les Chansonniers, 113, boulevard de Ménilmontant; (33-1) 4357-0058, doubles with shared bathroom from 46 euros, with ensuite bathroom from 59 euros.

WHAT TO SEE

Musée Carnavalet , 23, rue de Sévigné;(33-1) 4459-5858; www.carnavalet.paris.fr, free admission.

Musée Cognacq-Jay, 8, rue Elzévir; (33-1) 4027-0721; www.cognacq-jay.paris.fr., free admission.

Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature, 62, rue des Archives; (33-1) 5301-9240, www.chassenature.org; admission 6 euros, free the first Sunday of every month.

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK

Pink Flamingo, 67, rue Bichat; (33-1) 4202-3170; www.pinkflamingopizza.com

Le Verre Volé, 67, rue de Lancry; (33-1) 4803-1734; www.leverrevole.fr.

Bistrot Victoires, 6, rue de la Vrillière; (33-1) 4261-4378.

Chez Georges, 11, rue des Canettes; (33-1) 4326-7915.

Le Baron Rouge, 1, rue Théophile-Roussel, (33-1) 4343-1432.

Churrasqueira Galo, 69, rue de Dunkerque, (33-1) 4874-4940

Le Garde Robe, 41, rue de l’Arbre Sec, (33-1) 4926-9060.

Le Cul de Poule, 53, rue des Martyrs, (33-1) 5316-1307, is super-playful from its name (literally, chicken butt; figuratively, double-boiler) to its décor (orange chairs, bed-like banquette). But the cooking is serious, precise, creative and affordable, with two courses 23 euros, and three for 26.

Le Bar à Soupes, 33, rue de Charonne; (33-1) 4357-5379; www.lebarasoupes.com, offers an excellent lunch deal: a fresh market soup, two types of cheese, bread and a glass of wine for 9.90 euros.

WHERE TO SHOP

À Chacun Son Image, 35-37, rue Charlot, (33-665) 2395-0300; achacunsonimage.wordpress.com.

Native Kingdom, 24, rue de Poitou

A.P.C. Surplus, 20, rue Andre del Sarte; (33-1) 4262-1088; www.apc.fr.

The “soldes” are here!

Starting Jan. 7, storming the barricades will take on a whole new meaning in Paris.

That marks opening day of this year’s winter “soldes” (sales), five weeks of frenzied bargain-hunting for the perfect Azzaro cocktail dress or the normally unaffordable monogrammed Noël bed linen — at between 30 and 70 percent off.

[From Globespotters - Paris Goes on Sale - NYTimes.com]

It’s been a long, long time since anyone told an American that “it’s like Paris is on sale,” as they did in the eighties. Even with the recent temporary drop in the Euro, no one said sale. They just said less “pénible.”

Sales occur in Paris, of course, year around, but under French law, retail stores can only run public sales with big “SOLDES” banners only for several weeks in January and July.

The New York Times offers this added advice for the Paris sales:

• arrive early; don’t shop with a parent, spouse or child; eat a hearty breakfast; wear loose clothing and sensible shoes.
• Negotiate the hotel rate. Even discounted prices can come down.
• Think French. The lowest price isn’t always the best deal. Buy one glorious luxury item that will last forever.
• Pre-shop the sales. Do a dry run and check out the layout of the stores and the merchandise before sales day.
• Sweet talk the clerks. With charm and some good luck, you may be able to persuade the sales person to extend you the discount on the eve of the sales, or at least to set the longed-for item aside.

Happy shopping (as if as an American, you actually have any cash left to spend)!

Our friend Laila is so rafinée, with such discriminating taste. We’ve become closer friends since she and her family moved to Paris from San Francisco. As she is a French local, she has found for us several places in the neighborhood which are definitely great finds. One is a terrific gathering place for families on Sunday brunch. She found for us Le Pain Quotidien. She also had us meet at Bonpoint restaurant, which of course is housed in the Bonpoint boutique situated in the VIéme arrodissement, not too far from the Sénat, It is a welcoming place, at once sober and chic, with murals on the walls done with chalk, clearly at the hands of little artists. They serve creative Italian cuisine for the entire family. The space is underground, with plenty of space for kids to play and draw while the parents can eat and enjoy adult conversation.

It’s a great way to pass a nice afternoon with tea and snack, or for the children to enjoy the delicious house chocolate mousse or any of the goodies on the menu. The store and restaurant is housed in a grand hotel with a ample courtyard, where the large French doors are opened to the outdoors during the summer. Of course, after your respite, each of the rooms of the hotel/boutique is beautifully curated and showcases the entire Bonpoint children’s clothing and objet collection, as only the French can. 6, rue de Tournon, 76006.

What a delight to come upon a whimsical wall of handmade finger puppets? Little Red Riding Hood, Three Little Bears, Pinocchio… one wall of the shop was covered with these little handmade toys which absolutely delighted my two kids. They had dreams of a MAJOR puppet theatre. As we entered the shop, we saw the creatrice sitting on her stool, knitting things even more interesting. Another wall of the little shop showcased her handmade children’s sweaters with every imaginable image including space ships, stars, you name it. Celis makes everything herself by hand and it shows. This is the place to go to find that absolutely special, one of a kind gift for the little ones. It was really hard to get my kids out of the little atelier without succumbing to the whimsy of the place. Celis, at 72 rue Vielle du Temple.

Early morning walks when I have Paris to myself is a great time to discover new places. Located in a two-storey loft, Bon Ton on Rue de Grenelle is a real charm. Clothes are carefully selected to suit contemporary mothers and their kids. The place also houses an art gallery with rotating exhibitions, with the top floor with its display of funky furniture, bed + bath, and objets. Four locations, including Bon Ton Bazar.

82 rue de Grenelle et 118 rue Vieille du Temple

Here I’m sitting in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, leafing through a local magazine and I see a dispatch from Paris. What do you know. People barely make US$600 on average here but they aspire to visit Paris.

Don’t we all.

Their recommendations are terrific, and I agree with most of them. And think, I had to go all the way to Cambodia to discover a few things in my own neighborhood. Such is the life of a global nomad.

Deyrolle, the 170 year old establishment on rue du Bac (near Blvd. St. Germain) that is the most extraordinary taxidermy shop, a realm of French institution. Deyrolle.com,

Sennelier, debuted in 1887, by a passionate chemist Guastave Sennelier, is located across from the Louvre and nearby l’Ecole des Beaux-Arts. It is an atelier of all things colors, pigments, and creations, for any palette created by an artist. 3, Quai Voltaire.

Galerie Martine Gossieaux, opened in 1992, has regular exhibitions of graphic artists of international fame: Savignac “affichiste”, Sempé, Steig, Chaval, André François, Ronald Searle, Benoît and Pierre Le Tan.They are all regular collaborators for different and important magazines around the world, such as “New Yorker”. 56, rue de l’Université.

Hotel Verneuil, has almost the perfect location, in the quartier antiquaire, right on the boundaries of sixiéme and septiéme arrondisements. The hotel is blushingly romantic, bathed in history and discreetly housed in a handsome 17th century building, and stylish in a way that weds the past (miles of printed fabrics from France’s old-guard textile houses) to the present (iron cube tables with a deliberately rusted finish). Some of the 26 guest rooms are a bit tight, but Flore and Deux Magots are your local cafés— complaining seems like bad manners. 8, rue de Verneuil.

L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, is a must on a gourmet’s list. With a restaurant empire all over the world (Las Vegas, Macao, London, Tokyo, New York, and Monaco), Joel Robuchon this is chef and his Atelier is no ordinary dining experience. It’s a Michelin-star restaurant, in the Hotel du Port Royal, on rue Montalembert, in the tony septiéme. It’s a open kitchen concept, with only 36 seats, with tapa size beautiful food. No reservations are taken, so be strategic and get there early for a seat at the counter. It’s a favorite sport of chic Parisians to time a table just right. 5, rue de Montalembert, corner of rue de Bac.

La Hune, is an artist’s art bookstore. This place is part of the history of St. Germain des Prés with the likes of Max Ernst, André Breton and many other artists through the decades who have come to hang out here as well as Café de Flore which is next door. 170, Boulevard St Germain.

Astier et Villate, is the haute emporium of all that is beautiful about maison et objets of French china and things for the house. 173, rue St. Honoré.

Coton Doux, is a must if you’re stocking up on the most beautifully made, fantastic colors and design, in men’s shirts and pajamas. Boutiques throughout Paris. 68, rue Mazarine is in the neighborhood.

Leave it to the Cambodians in the know to reveal Paris to me.

Tati is one of Paris’s most iconic stores, and it has arrived in our neighborhood, on Blvd. St. Germain, near the corner of rue de Buci. The ultimate haven for bargain-basement prices, it’s not for the fainthearted or claustrophobic, your truly. I really have to brace myself to go in here. On an average day it’s jam-packed with people rifling through the jumbled trays in search of a great buy, which they always succeed in finding, since the key word here is cheap — utterly, unabashedly cheap. One of its most famous deals was underwear for just EUR 0.15 a pair.