39Vaugirard

Our kids love Paris’ parks, and the splattering of manèges and play structures we find on our long walks across the city. But day in, day out, except when it rains, they want to go back to “Le Jardin,” as everyone, at least in the 6th and 7th, calls it. Aside from being classically beautiful, designed by architect Salomon de Brosse under Marie de Medici’s supervision (1615-1627), and a wonderful place for adult pursuits, like making out on the grass, playing tennis, or dozing by the bassin, this place is filled with stuff kids like. More below the quote.

Paris is a great place to take your children on holiday as there are many tourist attractions, museums and parks in the city that cater to children. Several of the parks scattered across Paris, are equipped with playgrounds, carousels, puppet shows and petting zoos that children are sure to love.

1. Jardins du Luxembourg (Rue de Médicis, Rue de Vaugirard) – This garden has a long history, it was established in the 17th century by Marie de Medicis from Italy. This is one of the most popular gardens in Paris and is especially full on weekends, when there are guignols, puppet shows and poneys! There are also a number of ponds where one can go boating, take a stroll, or simply relax while the children play in the sun.

Best parks for Kids in Paris, Family travel in France. Zoos, parks and games

Take your pick from the attractions below made for the under 12 set:

• Pony carrousel with “grab the ring” feature
• Zipline ride
• Immense play structure and sandboxes (n.b. pay for entry, even for parents)
• Cotton candy
• Rental sailboats in the fountain
• Pony and donkey rides
• Famous marionette theatre
• Flying two person swings

There is plenty to enjoy here without paying a cent, but go with kids, and expect to shell out plenty of 2 Euro coins to enjoy the full experience.

Our friend Patrick Mikla always surprises us with ‘inside’ discoveries of Paris and France. From the time we met him some 15 year ago, I can remember each and every one of our adventures. The latest is France Miniature.

He took the day off and took us Élancourt, a town about an hour drive outside of Paris, where this miniature park attraction featuring scale models of major French landmarks and monuments is located in an outdoor park. It’s absolutely delightful, for both adults and children. For architecture and history buffs like my husband and me, the park has about 160 scale models of major French monuments and landmarks. Many of the models are animated and all of the country’s best known landmarks are represented (Lourdes, Eiffel Tower, Dungeons, etc). We reminisced about many of our trips to certain regions of France as well as discussed monuments and churches that we had never heard of.

For our daughter and and our son, the system of model trains that runs through the park kept them consistently delighted, and the animated boats and planes over the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean were very amusing. Half way through the park, there is even an old fashion amusement park/respite and a restaurant, where the kids and parents can go on slides and the parents can take in a nice tea.

Two more chocolatiers opened in the neighborhood, giving competition to Pierre Hérme. Patrick Roger, voted the best chocolatier in 2000, seems to be guided by the seasons and his whimsies, as my daughter Hadley and I saw the largest 6′ chocolate pencils to commemorate the start of the school. Down the street, on rue de Rennes, is another contender, L’Atelier du Chocolat, which looks more homey and provincial, with nuts and praline as well as patisseries. Pierre Hérme, 72, rue Bonaparte, 75006. Patrick Roger, 91 rue de Rennes, 75006. L’Atelier du Chocolat, 89 rue de Rennes.

This three-floor, 16,000-square-foot general store near the Marais offers shopping with a conscience; all of the profits are donated to children’s charities in Madagascar. The couple behind Bonpoint children’s clothing fame have put together an irresistible array of cutting-edge design, in-house collections, vintage furniture and kitchen and tableware finds, plus fashion, lowers, a perfume bar, and a used book café. 111 Boulevard Beaumarchais.

A friend asked me what to do on Bastille Day and I suggested fireworks on the Champs de Mars. But what about for our Independance Day. Here’s a fun idea for kids and adults that will get you out and exploring. Sitting in my office in San Francisco, I feel smug that I already had Clue 1 (below) for the 6th figured out without leaving my chair. I wish we could be there for this.  

On July 4th, the 4th annual Paris Treasure Hunt will take residents and visitors alike on a day-long quest through the streets of Paris. Previous years’ events drew upwards of 15,000 participants, and this year’s event will surely do the same. The event is open to individuals or teams (of up to six people), and prizes are awarded at the end of the day.

The treasure hunt is actually a series of hunts divided among the ten districts (arrondissements) that participate. Each district has its own quest and a variety of “enigmas” – the story that leads you along the path – to put people on different paths to the finish line. Each district also has an English-language enigma, so fear not. It’s not necessary to parle vous Française.

In the 6th arrondissement, for instance, your enigma may start off with a paragraph that reads: “Walk along the great garden. Your direction: the palace. You are on the longest street of Paris. On your right side, you will see the museum. Reach the painter, behind the forest. And when you see the arches, go under them. Against the wall, you will find a meter.“

[From The Paris Treasure Hunt: A Great Way to Explore the City of Paris | Parisien Salon]

I remember when my husband first took me on a canal ride on Canal St. Martin. A canal that is only open to boat rides during the summer. A canal that cuts through the 4th and 10th arrondisements, that is the heart of the bohemian Paris. Of course, as I read this article in NY Times, I was reminded once again, the democratic pleasures of Paris… that the Proustian aspects of Paris need not be costly….

IF YOU GO HOW TO GET AROUND

The Vélib’ bicycle-rental system has become exceedingly popular. Rental stations are located all around the city, and a one-hour rental costs only 1 euro.

The Métro is the best alternative (besides walking). Tickets are 1.60 euros each, but can be bought in packets of 10 (un carnet) for 11.40 euros, about $16 at $1.41 to the euro. If you’re going to be in Paris from Monday through Sunday, or plan to ride the Métro frequently, invest in a swipable Navigo card. The card itself costs 5 euros, and a weeklong unlimited credit is 16.80 euros. Hold on to the card when the week is up — you can use it on your next visit.

WHERE TO STAY

Hipotel Paris Belleville, 21, rue Vicq d’Azir, (33-1) 4208-0670; singles from 32 euros.

Hôtel des Arts Bastille, 2, rue Godefroy Cavaignac; (33-1) 4379-7257, www.paris-hotel-desarts.com; doubles from 59 euros.

Les Chansonniers, 113, boulevard de Ménilmontant; (33-1) 4357-0058, doubles with shared bathroom from 46 euros, with ensuite bathroom from 59 euros.

WHAT TO SEE

Musée Carnavalet , 23, rue de Sévigné;(33-1) 4459-5858; www.carnavalet.paris.fr, free admission.

Musée Cognacq-Jay, 8, rue Elzévir; (33-1) 4027-0721; www.cognacq-jay.paris.fr., free admission.

Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature, 62, rue des Archives; (33-1) 5301-9240, www.chassenature.org; admission 6 euros, free the first Sunday of every month.

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK

Pink Flamingo, 67, rue Bichat; (33-1) 4202-3170; www.pinkflamingopizza.com

Le Verre Volé, 67, rue de Lancry; (33-1) 4803-1734; www.leverrevole.fr.

Bistrot Victoires, 6, rue de la Vrillière; (33-1) 4261-4378.

Chez Georges, 11, rue des Canettes; (33-1) 4326-7915.

Le Baron Rouge, 1, rue Théophile-Roussel, (33-1) 4343-1432.

Churrasqueira Galo, 69, rue de Dunkerque, (33-1) 4874-4940

Le Garde Robe, 41, rue de l’Arbre Sec, (33-1) 4926-9060.

Le Cul de Poule, 53, rue des Martyrs, (33-1) 5316-1307, is super-playful from its name (literally, chicken butt; figuratively, double-boiler) to its décor (orange chairs, bed-like banquette). But the cooking is serious, precise, creative and affordable, with two courses 23 euros, and three for 26.

Le Bar à Soupes, 33, rue de Charonne; (33-1) 4357-5379; www.lebarasoupes.com, offers an excellent lunch deal: a fresh market soup, two types of cheese, bread and a glass of wine for 9.90 euros.

WHERE TO SHOP

À Chacun Son Image, 35-37, rue Charlot, (33-665) 2395-0300; achacunsonimage.wordpress.com.

Native Kingdom, 24, rue de Poitou

A.P.C. Surplus, 20, rue Andre del Sarte; (33-1) 4262-1088; www.apc.fr.

Paris Greeter was set up just so locals can share the Parisian experience. Local guides take you on tours of 2-3 hours and welcome children.

You are coming to Paris and want to live an unusual and exciting experience?
A Paris Greeter will make sure you discover the true Paris, the way Parisians live it and love it!
Paris Greeters are volunteers willing to share their knowledge of Paris in general and a specific neighbourhood in particular. They will take you to unusual and often hidden places, will tell you their history (and story!) and will give you tips on good places to go.

All our volunteers are Paris lovers who like to share the art, tradition and culture of this fascinating city. At the end of the walk, we really want you to have the feeling that you have not only discovered the city but also had an insight into what we call the “Parisian way of life.”

[From ParisianGreeter.org]

This sounds like a wonderful idea since who knows a neighborhood better than someone who lives there. We’ll definitely try it out on our next trip to Paris.

This is a good set of ideas for travel to Paris with kids, most of which I think is spot-on, especially advice to eat at big brasseries where noisy kids won’t even be noticed.

Be sure to buy a Pariscope and check the enfants section for a list of current events for children, including children’’s theater, circuses, special museum workshops, and all the puppet shows. Time your stints in the major museums carefully, and look into any children’’s tours they might offer. The ideas below focus on Paris proper; outside the city there’’s always Disneyland Paris.?

Day 1

Give your kids an idea of how Paris was planned by climbing to the top of the Arc de Triomphe. From here work your way down the Champs-Élysées toward place de la Concorde. Stop for a puppet show at the Marionettes des Champs-Élysées, at avenues Matignon and Gabriel. Or head to the Palais de la Découverte, just off the Champs, to catch a planetarium show. Continue walking down the Champs to the Jardin des Tuileries, where kids can work off steam on the trampolines, ride the ponies, or spin on one of the prettiest merry-go-rounds in Paris. For an afternoon treat head for Angélina (on rue de Rivoli), a tearoom famous for its thick hot chocolate.

Note: If you want to see the puppet show, do this on a Wednesday, Saturday, or Sunday. Skip this on Monday, when the Palais de la Découverte is closed.

Day 2

In the morning head to the Tour Eiffel for a bird’’s-eye view of the city. After you descend, give the nearby carousel a whirl; ride on one of the Bateaux-Mouches at place de l”Alma; or, for older kids who arelooking for a gross-out factor, brave Les Égouts, the Paris sewers. Next take the métro to the Parc André-Citroën, where there’’s a computerized “dancing fountain,” or to the Bois de Boulogne, where you”ll find a zoo and mini amusement park (the Jardin d”Acclimatation), rowboats, and plenty of wide-open space.

This won”t work on Thursday or Friday, when Les Égouts are closed.

Day 3

Start early at Notre-Dame Cathédral, climbing up the tower for the view of the city and the gargoyles. Have lunch in the area, and then head to Berthillon, on Île St-Louis, for some of the city’’s best ice cream. Afterward cross the Seine and walk or take the métro to the Odéon stop. From there walk around the colonnaded Théâtre de l”Odéon to the Jardin du Luxembourg, where there’’s a playground, a pond where kids can rent miniature boats, a café, a marionette theater, and plenty of places to sit. If you think your children would like to see the bustle of a local market, try the one on rue Mouffetard. Ready for more? Walk to the Centre de la Mer et des Eaux, an aquarium nearby, then continue on foot or by bus to the Arènes de Lutèce, one of the few vestiges of the former Roman city. Not far on foot or by métro is the Jardin des Plantes, a botanical garden with the state-of-the-art Grande Galerie d”Évolution, a museum exhibiting a collection of taxidermy of all kinds of animals. Also just a métro ride away in Montparnasse (métro Denfert-Rochereau) are the catacombs, dark tunnels filled with bones, which usually fascinate older kids.

Don”t try to see the Catacombs on Monday or the Grande Galerie d’Évolution on Tuesday, when they”re closed.

Day 4

Take a walk through the Marais, stopping early on at the Musée Picasso and keeping your eyes peeled for storybook architectural details. Nearby, pick up a sandwich to eat on a bench on the place des Vosges. Next, head over to the Centre Pompidou; either see an exhibit (often there are special kids” programs related to the shows) or simply ride the escalator to the top for a great view of Paris. Around the corner, on square Igor-Stravinsky, watch the imaginative, moving sculptures in the fountain. Another option is to take the métro from the Châtelet-Les-Halles station to the Porte de La Villette stop; in the whimsical park of the same name are an interactive science museum, a museum of musical instruments, an IMAX theater, and various innovative structures to play on and in.

Because of closings, do this between Wednesday and Sunday: the Parc de La Villette is closed Monday and the Centre Pompidou and Musée Picasso Tuesday.

With Children in Hotels?

Most hotels in Paris allow children under a certain age to stay in their parents” room at no charge. Hotel rooms are often on the small side, so inquire about connecting rooms or suites.

The budget-priced Hôtel Marignan (13 rue Sommerand, Paris, 75005, France. PHONE: 01-43-54-63-81) has rooms that sleep four or five, as well as access to a communal laundry room and kitchen facilities. The Hôtel Résidence Henri IV (50 rue Bernadins, Paris, 75005, France.PHONE: 01-44-41-31-81) has rooms with kitchenettes.

The chain Novotel (PHONE: 800/221-4542 for reservations; 08-25-88-44-44 in France) is a good bet as it allows two children under 16 to stay free in their parents” room; kids are offered free breakfast and gifts. Many Novotel hotels have playgrounds and children’’s corners with video games.

Renting a furnished apartment is a convenient choice for families. Weekly rentals can be as economical as an inexpensive hotel.

On the other end of the price spectrum, the palace hotels are increasingly attuned to travelers with children. Many have special activities geared to make kids feel welcome in the formal surroundings. The Four Seasons Hôtel George V Paris (31 av. George V, Paris, 75008, France. PHONE: 1-49-52-70-00, www.fourseasons.com/paris) has a “George the Frog” program which includes personalized T-shirts, in-room milk and cookies, and hotel-wide scavenger hunts. The Hôtel Meridien Montparnasse (19 rue de Commandant-Mouchotte, Paris, 75014, France. PHONE: 01-44-36-44-36, www.lemeridien.com) offers games, face painting, and a Sunday brunch where kids have their own buffet. The Ritz (15 pl. Vendôme, Paris, 75001, France. PHONE: 01-43-16-30-30, www.ritz.com) treats young guests like kings, with special cooking classes, gifts, and kids” menus.

With Children in Restaurants?

Although high chairsand coloring books aren”t standard except in overtly child-friendly chains such as Hippopotamus, which serves good steak-frites, some French restaurants can be warmly welcoming to budding gastronomes. You can help the experience by preparing the ground: Pack a folding booster seat for toddlers, since in the rare cases where high chairs are provided, they are usually missing pieces. Cigarette smoke is likely to be a problem, so ask for the no-smoking area.

Brasseries are one of the best choices for kids; they”re lively and noisy and provide familiar options, such as pommes frites (french fries), croque monsieurs (toasted ham-and-cheese sandwiches), and roast chicken. Creperies are also fun, fast, and quintessentially French: what child can resist a crepe filled with warm banana and smothered in chocolate sauce?

[From Europe > Paris - Travel | Terra]

Our friend Laila is so rafinée, with such discriminating taste. We’ve become closer friends since she and her family moved to Paris from San Francisco. As she is a French local, she has found for us several places in the neighborhood which are definitely great finds. One is a terrific gathering place for families on Sunday brunch. She found for us Le Pain Quotidien. She also had us meet at Bonpoint restaurant, which of course is housed in the Bonpoint boutique situated in the VIéme arrodissement, not too far from the Sénat, It is a welcoming place, at once sober and chic, with murals on the walls done with chalk, clearly at the hands of little artists. They serve creative Italian cuisine for the entire family. The space is underground, with plenty of space for kids to play and draw while the parents can eat and enjoy adult conversation.

It’s a great way to pass a nice afternoon with tea and snack, or for the children to enjoy the delicious house chocolate mousse or any of the goodies on the menu. The store and restaurant is housed in a grand hotel with a ample courtyard, where the large French doors are opened to the outdoors during the summer. Of course, after your respite, each of the rooms of the hotel/boutique is beautifully curated and showcases the entire Bonpoint children’s clothing and objet collection, as only the French can. 6, rue de Tournon, 76006.

Paris is lovely for children…. We had three families (twelve people) at Sunday brunch at Le Pain Quotidien where we sat at a grand communal table and enjoyed the all natural menu in a lovely, even joyful ambiance, if you can believe it. It’s decorated like a grand épicerie à l’ancienne with an incredibly organic menu. It’s the place to meet all the other families enjoying a relaxing Sunday, even on a wet raining winter day. Le Pain du Quotidien, rue Vaneau @ rue du Bac, 6me. Several locations throughout Paris.