39Vaugirard

We’ve had some doozies over the years. One beautiful high-design apartment was built over a bar AND directly over the subway. It looked great in photos and even better in person, but we couldn’t wait for our vacation to be over so we could get a good night’s sleep.

Beyond the obvious, here are 10 things we’d want to know before sending in a deposit.

1. High floor? Ideally an apartment should be above the second (American) floor so you’re slightly above traffic noise and dirt.

2. Double or triple-paned windows? This can help, if not totally eliminate traffic noise.

3. Air conditioning? Never a “standard” item in Europe so always ask if you have low heat tolerance. It often doesn’t exist because cool nightly breezes cool things to “livable” levels, but you may be spoiled by US standards. Make sure A/C is strong enough to handle a major heatwave if you’re traveling at peak periods.

4. Close to subways or other transit? Close to grocery stores? This will make a world of difference if you’re out and about. It’s no fun to lug groceries 7 or 8 blocks home after a day or touring.

5. Friendly or at least non-aggressive neighbors? In many places, there is no legal ability for neighbors to protest short-term rentals, but they can go out of their way to make short-term renters feel uncomfortable and unwanted.

6. Quiet neighbors? Make sure the Flamenco dance studio is closed during your visit.

7. Bathroom and shower in the apartment. This likely won’t happen to you, but as a student, I once rented a place where you had to go out in the hallway to use the toilet. “Chambres de bonne” in France often have shared facilities including showers, so don’t take this for granted, especially for low-price offers.

8. Includes towels and other equipment? You don’t want your first excursion to be to a store to buy plates and towels, as I had to to do at a sublet in Corsica.

9. Does everything in the pictures “work?” TVs and computers make nice furniture, but are frustrating if they don’t actually function.

10. Internet or “internet-ready?” Even in 2010, some people suggest “internet ready data port” meaning an outlet for your modem cord on the phone. We fell for this one five or six years ago, but still see it often in ads.

Good luck and let me know if you have any of your own gained through experience!

We’ve had some doozies over the years. One beautiful high-design apartment was built over a bar AND directly over the subway. It looked great in photos and even better in person, but we couldn’t wait for our vacation to be over so we could get a good night’s sleep.

Beyond the obvious, here are 10 things we’d want to know before sending in a deposit.

1. High floor? Ideally an apartment should be above the second (American) floor so you’re slightly above traffic noise and dirt.

2. Double or triple-paned windows? This can help, if not totally eliminate traffic noise.

3. Air conditioning? Never a “standard” item in Europe so always ask if you have low heat tolerance. It often doesn’t exist because cool nightly breezes cool things to “livable” levels, but you may be spoiled by US standards. Make sure A/C is strong enough to handle a major heatwave if you’re traveling at peak periods.

4. Close to subways or other transit? Close to grocery stores? This will make a world of difference if you’re out and about. It’s no fun to lug groceries 7 or 8 blocks home after a day or touring.

5. Friendly or at least non-aggressive neighbors? In many places, there is no legal ability for neighbors to protest short-term rentals, but they can go out of their way to make short-term renters feel uncomfortable and unwanted.

6. Quiet neighbors? Make sure the Flamenco dance studio is closed during your visit.

7. Bathroom and shower in the apartment. This likely won’t happen to you, but as a student, I once rented a place where you had to go out in the hallway to use the toilet. “Chambres de bonne” in France often have shared facilities including showers, so don’t take this for granted, especially for low-price offers.

8. Includes towels and other equipment? You don’t want your first excursion to be to a store to buy plates and towels, as I had to to do at a sublet in Corsica.

9. Does everything in the pictures “work?” TVs and computers make nice furniture, but are frustrating if they don’t actually function.

10. Internet or “internet-ready?” Even in 2010, some people suggest “internet ready data port” meaning an outlet for your modem cord on the phone. We fell for this one five or six years ago, but still see it often in ads.

Good luck and let me know if you have any of your own gained through experience!

I just learned of the provenance of the fabled street, rue Madame, that crosses rue de Vaugirard, where our apartment is located. It was named after Marie-Joseph-Louise, “Madame” de Savoie, the wife of Xavier-Stanilas “Monsieur” de Bourbon, Count of Provence and the future Louis XVIII. In 1790, “Monsieur,” the current owner of the Luxembourg Palace, honoured “Madame” by naming the new path near the Palace. Well, a smart hotel has opened up down the street and it looks trés sympa. Hotel Villa Madame, 44 rue Madame, 75006.

I remember when my husband first took me on a canal ride on Canal St. Martin. A canal that is only open to boat rides during the summer. A canal that cuts through the 4th and 10th arrondisements, that is the heart of the bohemian Paris. Of course, as I read this article in NY Times, I was reminded once again, the democratic pleasures of Paris… that the Proustian aspects of Paris need not be costly….

IF YOU GO HOW TO GET AROUND

The Vélib’ bicycle-rental system has become exceedingly popular. Rental stations are located all around the city, and a one-hour rental costs only 1 euro.

The Métro is the best alternative (besides walking). Tickets are 1.60 euros each, but can be bought in packets of 10 (un carnet) for 11.40 euros, about $16 at $1.41 to the euro. If you’re going to be in Paris from Monday through Sunday, or plan to ride the Métro frequently, invest in a swipable Navigo card. The card itself costs 5 euros, and a weeklong unlimited credit is 16.80 euros. Hold on to the card when the week is up — you can use it on your next visit.

WHERE TO STAY

Hipotel Paris Belleville, 21, rue Vicq d’Azir, (33-1) 4208-0670; singles from 32 euros.

Hôtel des Arts Bastille, 2, rue Godefroy Cavaignac; (33-1) 4379-7257, www.paris-hotel-desarts.com; doubles from 59 euros.

Les Chansonniers, 113, boulevard de Ménilmontant; (33-1) 4357-0058, doubles with shared bathroom from 46 euros, with ensuite bathroom from 59 euros.

WHAT TO SEE

Musée Carnavalet , 23, rue de Sévigné;(33-1) 4459-5858; www.carnavalet.paris.fr, free admission.

Musée Cognacq-Jay, 8, rue Elzévir; (33-1) 4027-0721; www.cognacq-jay.paris.fr., free admission.

Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature, 62, rue des Archives; (33-1) 5301-9240, www.chassenature.org; admission 6 euros, free the first Sunday of every month.

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK

Pink Flamingo, 67, rue Bichat; (33-1) 4202-3170; www.pinkflamingopizza.com

Le Verre Volé, 67, rue de Lancry; (33-1) 4803-1734; www.leverrevole.fr.

Bistrot Victoires, 6, rue de la Vrillière; (33-1) 4261-4378.

Chez Georges, 11, rue des Canettes; (33-1) 4326-7915.

Le Baron Rouge, 1, rue Théophile-Roussel, (33-1) 4343-1432.

Churrasqueira Galo, 69, rue de Dunkerque, (33-1) 4874-4940

Le Garde Robe, 41, rue de l’Arbre Sec, (33-1) 4926-9060.

Le Cul de Poule, 53, rue des Martyrs, (33-1) 5316-1307, is super-playful from its name (literally, chicken butt; figuratively, double-boiler) to its décor (orange chairs, bed-like banquette). But the cooking is serious, precise, creative and affordable, with two courses 23 euros, and three for 26.

Le Bar à Soupes, 33, rue de Charonne; (33-1) 4357-5379; www.lebarasoupes.com, offers an excellent lunch deal: a fresh market soup, two types of cheese, bread and a glass of wine for 9.90 euros.

WHERE TO SHOP

À Chacun Son Image, 35-37, rue Charlot, (33-665) 2395-0300; achacunsonimage.wordpress.com.

Native Kingdom, 24, rue de Poitou

A.P.C. Surplus, 20, rue Andre del Sarte; (33-1) 4262-1088; www.apc.fr.

So many friends and others interested in traveling to Paris have been calling us to rent our place or to find other rentals and hotels for their summer holiday. Even though the economy is still in the doldrum and they say travel is definitely down, there are still many who are taking advantage of the recession and finding great values in Paris and beyond.

Here are my favorite hotels in the neighborhood in order of preference:

Le Placide

This is probably my favorite. Three blocks away from our apartment. Contemporary Classic. The ultimate boutique hotel on the Left Bank. A former 19th Century private home with just 11 rooms, Hotel Le Placide has the feel of an exclusive private club. In a superb location in the 6th arrondisement just steps from the chic Bon Marche Department Store. Completely recreated and redesigned by Bruno Borrione, of the Philippe Starck design firm, the hotel offers 21st Century style, comfort and luxury. 6 rue Saint Placide, 75006

Hotel Senat This is also lovely, a block away from NE gate of Jardin du Luxumberg. I’ve walked by many times, never stayed there but looks lovely. Contemporary Classic. 10 rue de Vaugirard, 75006.

Hotel Verneuil Near the Quartier Antiquaire. Superb. Traditional elegance. Many interior designers stay here. The search stops here if you want a hotel that’s blushingly romantic, bathed in history, and stylish in a way that weds the past (miles of printed fabrics from France’s old-guard textile houses) to the present (iron cube tables with a deliberately rusted finish). Some of the 26 guest rooms are a bit tight, but with a heart-of-Rive-Gauche location—the Flore and Deux Magots are your local cafés— complaining seems like bad manners. Discreetly housed in a handsome 17th-century building with hand-hewn beams…” noted Travel & Leisure 8, rue de Verneuil, Paris, 75007

Hotel Le St. Gregoire We have stayed here. Charming, so so food, but absolutely quiet, as it used to be a mansion adjacent to the Abbe St. Gregoire. 43 Rue de l’Abbé-Grégoire, 76006.

Hotel Le Sainte Veuve. A little bit off the center of St. Germain in a quiet residential street, but walking distance to everything. French English in feel. 9 rue Sainte-Beuve, 75006

Hotel Le Relais Saint Germain. More traditional French, recently renovated, with one of the best restaurants for breakfast and lunch and dinner. On the border of 6th and 5th arrondisement. Provincial charm. 9, carrefour de l’Odéon 75006

Hotel Des Academies. Another great find. Chez Charlotte housed in the hotel is the newest tea room with the local buzz. More in the university area but wonderful as well. 15, rue de la Grand Chaumiére, 75006

Hotel Montalembert. We’ve stayed here as have many friends. Definitely a name brand, but lives up to the promise. Grand, upscale, and you can’t beat the location and the restaurants within a stone throw of the hotel. Contemporary Classic. 3 rue de Montalembert, 75007

And picking models that reinforce the identity of the hotel.

Le Meurice, the renowned hotel that occupies an 1835 palace across from the Tuileries, unveiled five retro-style bikes in the blue-green shade of the oxidized copper rooftops of the city, with matching helmets and front baskets emblazoned with the hotel’s gold logo. American and British guests in their 30s tend to be the most enthusiastic customers, according to the hotel; Le Meurice’s sister hotel, the Plaza Athénée, opted for zippy red bikes with panniers.

Early morning walks when I have Paris to myself is a great time to discover new places. Located in a two-storey loft, Bon Ton on Rue de Grenelle is a real charm. Clothes are carefully selected to suit contemporary mothers and their kids. The place also houses an art gallery with rotating exhibitions, with the top floor with its display of funky furniture, bed + bath, and objets. Four locations, including Bon Ton Bazar.

82 rue de Grenelle et 118 rue Vieille du Temple

Here I’m sitting in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, leafing through a local magazine and I see a dispatch from Paris. What do you know. People barely make US$600 on average here but they aspire to visit Paris.

Don’t we all.

Their recommendations are terrific, and I agree with most of them. And think, I had to go all the way to Cambodia to discover a few things in my own neighborhood. Such is the life of a global nomad.

Deyrolle, the 170 year old establishment on rue du Bac (near Blvd. St. Germain) that is the most extraordinary taxidermy shop, a realm of French institution. Deyrolle.com,

Sennelier, debuted in 1887, by a passionate chemist Guastave Sennelier, is located across from the Louvre and nearby l’Ecole des Beaux-Arts. It is an atelier of all things colors, pigments, and creations, for any palette created by an artist. 3, Quai Voltaire.

Galerie Martine Gossieaux, opened in 1992, has regular exhibitions of graphic artists of international fame: Savignac “affichiste”, Sempé, Steig, Chaval, André François, Ronald Searle, Benoît and Pierre Le Tan.They are all regular collaborators for different and important magazines around the world, such as “New Yorker”. 56, rue de l’Université.

Hotel Verneuil, has almost the perfect location, in the quartier antiquaire, right on the boundaries of sixiéme and septiéme arrondisements. The hotel is blushingly romantic, bathed in history and discreetly housed in a handsome 17th century building, and stylish in a way that weds the past (miles of printed fabrics from France’s old-guard textile houses) to the present (iron cube tables with a deliberately rusted finish). Some of the 26 guest rooms are a bit tight, but Flore and Deux Magots are your local cafés— complaining seems like bad manners. 8, rue de Verneuil.

L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, is a must on a gourmet’s list. With a restaurant empire all over the world (Las Vegas, Macao, London, Tokyo, New York, and Monaco), Joel Robuchon this is chef and his Atelier is no ordinary dining experience. It’s a Michelin-star restaurant, in the Hotel du Port Royal, on rue Montalembert, in the tony septiéme. It’s a open kitchen concept, with only 36 seats, with tapa size beautiful food. No reservations are taken, so be strategic and get there early for a seat at the counter. It’s a favorite sport of chic Parisians to time a table just right. 5, rue de Montalembert, corner of rue de Bac.

La Hune, is an artist’s art bookstore. This place is part of the history of St. Germain des Prés with the likes of Max Ernst, André Breton and many other artists through the decades who have come to hang out here as well as Café de Flore which is next door. 170, Boulevard St Germain.

Astier et Villate, is the haute emporium of all that is beautiful about maison et objets of French china and things for the house. 173, rue St. Honoré.

Coton Doux, is a must if you’re stocking up on the most beautifully made, fantastic colors and design, in men’s shirts and pajamas. Boutiques throughout Paris. 68, rue Mazarine is in the neighborhood.

Leave it to the Cambodians in the know to reveal Paris to me.

If we didn’t already have a place to stay in Paris, I’d love to try this out. Who hasn’t cruised on the Seine and wondered what it would be like to live in a houseboat at the center of Paris. Well, here’s one for rent, and at a pretty reasonable rate. It’s only 980E a week for two, sleeps six, and beyond two, goes for 364 E.

While there are some 200 livable boats moored in Paris along the Seine, there aren’t a lot of these boats that rent for short term apartments in Paris. The boat itself is about 650 square feet, including a separate bedroom, a ship bed in the main room, and private bathroom and shower. Unfortunately, they don’t allow kids under 15, so in my mind, this is really only a solution for a couple traveling without children.

The little boat is located down the Seine near the Gare d’Austerlitz and about a 15 minute walk from Notre Dame additional.

[From Chalik Boat apartment - Paris Sweet Home]

It’s been some thirty plus years since there were any water purity issues in Europe (though I’ve heard of recent problems in Barcelona), but that doesn’t mean you should drink every bit of water you see. We stay away from lapping up standing water in curbside puddles as a rule, and we avoid the water coming out of spigots marked “eau non-potable.” However, there is one risk area that is still a part of the older buildings in Paris, aging water systems that pose a risk of lead contamination.

Many older buildings have lead piping that has severely degraded over time and leaches lead into the water. This is especially true in buildings with lower occupancy, since the longer the water sits, the greater the risk. In older buildings where you’re not sure of the water supply, it’s wise to drink filtered water or buy your water at the store, especially if you are staying there for an extended period.

It’s impractical to remove this old piping unless major renovations are underway. However, many buildings, like the one in which our apartment is located, have replaced all piping in recent years along with the addition of elevators and other upgrades. Even so, we have a Brita filter we keep in the refrigerator, not for fear of lead, but we think the water just tastes better, and we hate lugging those bottles of Evian around (even though a Monoprix is only three doors away!).

PS: Did you know that lead is also a problem in the U.S.?

All but about 3 percent of public pipelines containing lead have been replaced with nontoxic materials, according to the American Water Works Association, a water-treatment industry scientific and educational group. Pipes with lead solder on the fittings were banned by the 1986 Safe Drinking Water Act. Nevertheless, some buildings built before 1986 are leaking lead into water systems as they age. From the Washington Times.