I’m consistently awestruck every time we visit our ‘Jardin.’  We’re so lucky to have le Jardin du Luxumbourg as our backyard.   Even after more than a decade and a half of coming to this lovely city each year, I have always found this park and its gardens magical.  Lately, I’ve found myself reading more about the planning of the space.

The Project for Public Spaces, a major urban planning think tank, considers the Luxembourg Gardens to be one of the most successful parks in the world, partly because it is so well integrated into the fabric of the city around it, which makes it easily accessible. There are also many things to do there, evidenced by the wide range of people who use it: children, older people, Sorbonne students, people cutting through on a lunch break, etc. People come to stroll, play chess, to sit and read, people watch, to sit at one of the cafes or to bring their children or grandchildren to one of the many attractions.  During the past decade, it has also become ground zero for French runners and athletes, who run/walk laps around the perimeter roads in the Park.  In addition, an organic fruit garden has sprung up in the southern section of the park, with pears, lemons, and oranges in full harvest.  Organized activities at the park include tennis, pony rides, puppet theatres, and toy sailboat rental (children float them in the large central fountain). We have used them all.  I just realized that visitors can also stop inside the Palais and attend a hearing of the French Senate, which is open to the public.

The Gardens also host innovative exhibits, such as one of aerial photographs from around the world.  Twice or thrice a year,  the exhibits are mounted on its perimeter gates facing Rue de Vaugirard and Blvd. St Michel.  In addition, it has an intimate Musée where we have seen some of the most memorable expositions, like the exquisite and rare Modigliani show we saw a couple of years ago.

I can imagine why Marie de Medici, bereaved after the death of her husband, could no longer live in the Louvre, and wanted to have this palace and the gardens built to remind of her childhood home, Palazzo Pitti in Florence.  We all want to be ‘home.’  My husband and I walk through the Jardin daily, and talk about whether indeed, this can or cannot be ‘a moveable feast.’

I just learned of the provenance of the fabled street, rue Madame, that crosses rue de Vaugirard, where our apartment is located. It was named after Marie-Joseph-Louise, “Madame” de Savoie, the wife of Xavier-Stanilas “Monsieur” de Bourbon, Count of Provence and the future Louis XVIII. In 1790, “Monsieur,” the current owner of the Luxembourg Palace, honoured “Madame” by naming the new path near the Palace. Well, a smart hotel has opened up down the street and it looks trés sympa. Hotel Villa Madame, 44 rue Madame, 75006.

Two more chocolatiers opened in the neighborhood, giving competition to Pierre Hérme. Patrick Roger, voted the best chocolatier in 2000, seems to be guided by the seasons and his whimsies, as my daughter Hadley and I saw the largest 6′ chocolate pencils to commemorate the start of the school. Down the street, on rue de Rennes, is another contender, L’Atelier du Chocolat, which looks more homey and provincial, with nuts and praline as well as patisseries. Pierre Hérme, 72, rue Bonaparte, 75006. Patrick Roger, 91 rue de Rennes, 75006. L’Atelier du Chocolat, 89 rue de Rennes.

It’s not been six months since we were last in Paris and I start to get really really hungry looking at pictures like those in this excellent roundup of Paris pastries and patisseries.   Patisserie Sadaharu Aoki is literally three doors away from our apartment, so my wife goes there quite often. I find it a tad over-priced and as the article says, a little too “untraditional” for my tastes. Still, for amateurs du genre, it’s a good stop on any pastry tour. All of the patisseries listed in this article are a hop, skip, or a big jump from 39 Vaugirard.

From Patisserie Sadaharu Aoki, this is a chocolate caramel tart. Chef Aoki’s pastries use many Asian flavors, which sometimes are a little far out for me. I stay with his more traditional pastries.

[From Food Lover's Odyssey: Journey Through the Pastries of Paris -- Part 2]

Adding to the list of wonderful things a hop, skip, and jump from our apartment is the second Pierrew Hermé, located at 185 rue de Vaugirard.

Pierre Hermé is one of the most talented and talked about pastry chef in the world.
The front of his pastry shop on rue Bonaparte looks like a jewelry store, the inside like a casket of very precious highly talked about edible jewels. Sometimes the window displays some sweet original pop culture items such as the series of Voltron (Goldorak for the French) character made out of chocolate.

[From Pierre Hermé: Paris’ divine pastries | 20 Little Cities]

While I’m sure Suzy Orman would never “waste” the extra centimes to upgrade to the level of these chocolate specialties, serious chocolate lovers and patisserie dévotés will want to make the trip.

If we didn’t already have a place to stay in Paris, I’d love to try this out. Who hasn’t cruised on the Seine and wondered what it would be like to live in a houseboat at the center of Paris. Well, here’s one for rent, and at a pretty reasonable rate. It’s only 980E a week for two, sleeps six, and beyond two, goes for 364 E.

While there are some 200 livable boats moored in Paris along the Seine, there aren’t a lot of these boats that rent for short term apartments in Paris. The boat itself is about 650 square feet, including a separate bedroom, a ship bed in the main room, and private bathroom and shower. Unfortunately, they don’t allow kids under 15, so in my mind, this is really only a solution for a couple traveling without children.

The little boat is located down the Seine near the Gare d’Austerlitz and about a 15 minute walk from Notre Dame additional.

[From Chalik Boat apartment - Paris Sweet Home]

It’s been some thirty plus years since there were any water purity issues in Europe (though I’ve heard of recent problems in Barcelona), but that doesn’t mean you should drink every bit of water you see. We stay away from lapping up standing water in curbside puddles as a rule, and we avoid the water coming out of spigots marked “eau non-potable.” However, there is one risk area that is still a part of the older buildings in Paris, aging water systems that pose a risk of lead contamination.

Many older buildings have lead piping that has severely degraded over time and leaches lead into the water. This is especially true in buildings with lower occupancy, since the longer the water sits, the greater the risk. In older buildings where you’re not sure of the water supply, it’s wise to drink filtered water or buy your water at the store, especially if you are staying there for an extended period.

It’s impractical to remove this old piping unless major renovations are underway. However, many buildings, like the one in which our apartment is located, have replaced all piping in recent years along with the addition of elevators and other upgrades. Even so, we have a Brita filter we keep in the refrigerator, not for fear of lead, but we think the water just tastes better, and we hate lugging those bottles of Evian around (even though a Monoprix is only three doors away!).

PS: Did you know that lead is also a problem in the U.S.?

All but about 3 percent of public pipelines containing lead have been replaced with nontoxic materials, according to the American Water Works Association, a water-treatment industry scientific and educational group. Pipes with lead solder on the fittings were banned by the 1986 Safe Drinking Water Act. Nevertheless, some buildings built before 1986 are leaking lead into water systems as they age. From the Washington Times.

Now, instead of walking to the end of the block to the store, we have a Monop’ (a mini Monoprix) three doors away next to the pastry shop,at 33 rue de Vaugirard. It’s a far bigger selection than the Huit a 8 at the end of the block though their selection of fruits and vegetables leaves much to be desired.

We are back in our apartment for 10 days and enjoying refinding old loves and finding new ones.

Funny to come across some of MY confidential list of favorite neighborhood places printed up in the Bon Appetit magazine. This is only for friends who truly appreciate these little finds. So, friends, here is my current list. But please, keep it to yourselves. C’est confidentiel.

SUPERB SPECIALTY SHOPS

Pâtisserie Sadaharu Aoki (literally a stone throw from our apartment
Sadaharu Aoki’s talent is huge, but his pristine white shop is the size of a cream puff (he has two other locations in Paris; this is my favorite branch). Sada, a hero in his native Japan, is one of the most creative pastry chefs working in Paris, where he was trained. While his black sesame éclairs rightly have a cult following, I can’t get enough of the Bamboo, a slender chocolate cake with a green tea filling. Ditto the Brooklyn, an über-classy cheesecake.
35 rue de Vaugirard, 6th; 011-33-1-45-44-48-90; sadaharuaoki.com

Da Rosa Épicerie-Cantine
When José Da Rosa set up shop five years ago, I couldn’t believe my luck. At last, we ordinary mortals could buy the same Spanish hams, mustards, and fine oils that Michelin chefs trusted him to supply. Now life is even sweeter — there’s the cantine, where we can nibble foie gras, great cheeses, a few hot dishes (try the risotto), and wines, too. And don’t leave without a sack of chocolate-coated Sauternes-soaked raisins. I’d call them Raisinets, but they’re in their own universe of wonderfulness.
62 rue de Seine, 6th; 011-33-1-40-51-00-09

Pierre Hermé
Pierre Hermé is widely considered the greatest pastry chef in the world, and has some of the most interesting chocolate in town. Mostly, his shoe box jewel of a store on Rue Bonaparte is exquisite and has people lined up around the corner at all hours. His chocolate provoke, and though his provocations don’t always hit the mark, his work is always interesting. The combination of lavender and Chinese tea, chocolate with yuzu, the fragrant Japanese citrus, make it always an interesting event to experience his brand of gourmandise.
72, rue de Bonaparte, 6th; 011-33-1-43-54-47-77, www.pierreherme.com

Christian Constant
37 rue d’Assas, 6th; 011-33-1-53-63-15-15
Another place in the neighborhood, and not to be confused with the chef of Violon d’Ingres. This is the chocolate shop. Opened in 1970, Christian Constant sells some of Paris’s most delectable chocolates by the kilo. Each is a blend of ingredients from Ecuador, Colombia, or Venezuela, usually mingled with scents of spices and flowers like orange blossoms, jasmine, the Asian blossom ylang, and vetiver and verveine (herbs usually used to brew tea).

Mariage Freres Salon de Thé
13, Rue Grands Augustins, 6th; 011-33-1-40-51-82-50
My all time favourite place to spend time in the neighborhood. Actually, in Paris. Sitting and sipping tea at this jewel box of a tea salon, along with a Comptoir du Thé where its virtually a museum to the art of tea. It’s hidden in an alley way, tucked in a wonderful section of our neighborhood. This elegant salon de thé serves 500 kinds of tea, along with delicious tarts and cakes. In the upstairs salon, you’re transported back to a Chinese pagoda environ, with waiters dressed in elegant Chinoise uniform with beautiful Mandarin chairs and decor. On the main floor, one feels like you’ve stepped into a Chinese tea master’s apothecary with floor to ceiling tea cans and glass cases showcasing the most beautiful iron teapots and accoutrements for sale. They have another Salon in the Marais. www.mariagefreres.com

LADURÉE
21 rue Bonaparte, Paris, 6th; 33 (0)1 44 07 64 87
They say the history of Parisian tea salons is intimately tied to the history of the Ladurée family. Well, this Salon was reinvented in 1997, though you think it’s been there for centuries. This is my daughter’s favorite afternoon treat. The place is so special. They invented macaroons. Pistachio, Rose, Orange Blossoms, Lemon, Mint, in addition to the traditional Chocolate, Vanilla, Raspberry and so forth. The menu goes on for 24 pages with Petit Dejeuner, Salades, Les Viennoiserie, et al. The salon is exquisitely decorated to transport you back to some kinds of an exotic, exquisite luxurious, Oriental tent atmosphere, with requisite tromp l’oeil paintings of wild animals and flora. www.laduree.fr

STLYISH BARS, PERFECT BISTROS, GORGEOUS RESTAURANT

The Restaurant at L’Hotel
L’Hotel, where Oscar Wilde died “above his means,” is one of the coziest settings in Paris. Enter, walk past the small sitting room and the intimate bar, and you’ll reach the restaurant, formerly known as Le Bélier, which is like a luxurious salon, with silks, swags, sofas, and throw pillows, a setting so relaxing it clears your mind of everything but thoughts of a fine meal — which you’ll get here. The food is modern, refined, and beautifully presented (you must have the chocolate dessert plate), and the service cossets as much as all those pillows.
13 rue des Beaux-Arts, 6th; 011-33-1-44-41-99-00; l-hotel.com